Cashmere

A warm softness

Cashmere has always exerted an unparalleled fascination as it combines taste and style with softness and warmth. Soft, elastic, and resistant to wear, it has the ability to protect against both heat and cold and possesses high breathable properties.

This high-quality fiber is obtained from the fleece of the Hircus goat which, originally from the mountainous regions of Asia, is now mainly raised in China, Afghanistan, Mongolia, and Iran.

To protect itself from the harsh climate, the Hircus goat develops a double coat: a longer and coarser outer layer composed of guard hairs, and the duvet, in contact with the skin, which is softer and finer, from which cashmere is derived. The frigid temperatures that characterize the climate of Mongolia favor the growth of the undercoat: it is here that the finest cashmere in the world is sourced.

The consistency of the raw material varies according to age: the younger the goat, the greater its fineness. It is for this reason that baby cashmere, the duvet of young goats, is considered the most precious cashmere. The quality of the raw material is also determined based on color: the lighter and more brilliant the fiber, the higher its value.

We select this fiber with a warm and soft touch from farms in China and Mongolia, ensuring unparalleled quality of the raw material in full compliance with ethical and environmental standards.

The history and origin of cashmere

A seducer of merchants, aristocrats, and sovereigns of the East and West, cashmere is particularly appreciated in the fashion industry today for its versatility.
The use of this precious raw material has ancient origins: Roman nobles already loved wearing cashmere shawls as a symbol of high social status. Towards the end of the 13th century, Marco Polo, returning from his travels in the East, spoke of the extraordinary properties, beauty, and softness of the precious fleeces worn by Turcomans and Tartars.

Cashmere garments were initially reserved solely for Eastern sovereigns. In the 1400s, the Sultan of Kashmir was the first to promote the entry of the luxurious fiber into the court by having exquisite Pashminas made, garments of incomparable lightness. Subsequently, these precious stoles moved beyond the exclusivity of the courts to become part of the lives of the wealthier classes.

In the 19th century, this fiber spread throughout Europe, becoming a true fashion trend thanks to Napoleon’s wife and Queen Victoria, who were enchanted by the unique softness of the fabric. Despite having crossed times and borders, cashmere still reflects the ancient manufacturing traditions that link the Eastern and Western worlds.

Processing techniques

The harvesting of cashmere wool takes place during the goat’s spring molt: an average of 150-200 grams of duvet can be obtained from a single Hircus goat, a very small quantity that determines the high price of this precious material. The most widespread technique is the combing of the fleece, which is separated from the root with a special hooked comb to obtain the finest part of the hair. This procedure is harmless to the animal and is repeated twice at an interval of 3 or 4 weeks.

Once collected, the fiber is separated from impurities first manually and then through washing to obtain a uniform color. After drying, the cashmere is ready to undergo spinning, weaving, and finishing processes, resulting in a soft, high-quality fabric.

Sustainable cashmere

At least 4 Hircus goats are needed to create a single cashmere sweater, whereas a single sheep is enough to obtain five wool sweaters. This is why cashmere has always been reserved for a few luxury fashion houses.

Today, demand has increased exponentially: for this reason, the textile industry is increasingly committed to producing fabrics with a greater focus on sustainability, using regenerated cashmere. Menchi, which already used regenerated items, decided to certify its recycled cashmere fabric with the Prato Chamber of Commerce, thus obtaining the “cardato recycled” mark.

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